FUNDAMENTAL FISH

At Walnut Hills Country Club in East Lansing, MI, chef Kevin Kueppers prepares the members' favorite Friday night meal - deep fried perch with sides of coleslaw and french fries. Simple? Yes. But in today's uncertain climate, many at the club are opting for the ease of traditional recipes.

"The Friday night fish fry is very popular with our membership," Kueppers said. "During Lent we do it every week, and the dining rooms are always packed."

In years past, peace-of-mind was something that most people, including those in the club industry, took for granted. After a period of unbounded creativity in club seafood preparations - often featuring menu items inspired by a wide range of Mexican, Thai, Portuguese, and other ethnic styles many members are hungry for some old favorites; a trend that has come to be known as "comfort seafood."

"Comfort seafood is basically what guests order when they want to relax and feel comfortable," Kueppers explained. "Members want food they can relate to and not worry about how the flavors will be or if the fish will taste different."

John Kennealy of the Noonday Club in St. Louis, MO, also has noticed the trend. "Seafood is using less exotic approaches. It has almost become rustic in a sense; almost like something you'd have on a Sunday at home."

This back-to-basics approach has been motivated by a variety of factors, not the least of which the economic and social impact of the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks. In times of uncertainty, people naturally find solace in the familiar. "You just can't go wrong with good, oldfashioned battered fish and chips," Kueppers continued, "When in doubt, order something you know."

Industrv Slowdown The seafood industry was also affected by the economic slowdown in the past six months. According to information provided by the Rhode Island Seafood Council, the industry has lost an estimated $100 million since Sept. 11. In the subsequent weakened economy, consumers have cut down on restaurant spending.

"The restaurant industry as a whole has suffered tremendously," said Joe McClendon, president of Joe's Stone Crab, a Miami Beach, FL-based supplier of stone crab claws that also has a restaurant of the same name. "Our season, which runs from October 15 to May 15, has been very poor in recent months."

The lobster industry has also been hit particularly hard. Lobsters, generally considered a "celebration food," have experienced decreased demand during the recession. Lobstermen, when selling their catch to a dealer, were getting between $7 and $10 a pound at this time last year. Currently, they are receiving an average of $2.40 per pound - the lowest prices in 18 years. Similarly, yellowtail flounder fisherman who received $1 per pound of their catch in 2000 were getting only 28 cents per pound in December 2001.

This decreased demand on the supply side, therefore, means better prices for clubs on the purchasing end. Now may be the perfect time to re-evaluate what your club does with its seafood menu.

According to Seafood Trends Newsletter, salmon consumption in the U.S. has increased an average of 20 percent each and every year since 1990. The exploding demand has also motivated year-round salmon farming in more than a dozen countries to supplement the traditional annual crop caught in the wild.

"Pan seared salmon with caramelized onions and honey glaze, served with whipped sweet potatoes is a club favorite," Kueppers said.

A long-time staple at most restaurants and clubs, salmon is one of the most versatile dishes to prepare in traditional or unique ways. There are six different varieties of salmon to choose from, each with its own nuances of flavor and texture:

King - The King salmon is the largest fish in the category, but their populations are the smallest in number. In fact, Kings account for less than five percent of all salmon production in North America. High in oil content, they are often smoked. King salmon are available fresh in the spring and summer.

Sockeye (Red) - The most valuable commercial salmon, sockeyes have the reddest flesh. These fish are not farmed, and therefore are only available fresh in the summer. The highest quality sockeyes are taken from Alaska's Copper River, where fishing starts in May. Also high in oil content.

Atlantic - Available year-round, Atlantic salmon are the easiest salmon to farm, accounting for more than 80 percent of the world's salmon production. Most smoked salmon sold in the U.S. is processed from this type. Atlantic salmon are distinguished by their orange flesh color.

Pink - The pale pink flesh of this kind of salmon gives the Pink its name. The smallest species of salmon, Pinks average less than four pounds and are caught in huge numbers. Because large quantities are harvested in a short period of time each summer, more than 90 percent of the catch is canned. Another distinctive quality of Pinks is that they are low in oil content.

Silver - Although their oil content is lower than Sockeyes or Kings, Silvers also have a bright red color to their flesh. Considered one of the most flavorful salmon to eat, Silvers are not harvested in large numbers, accounting for less than five percent of the total catch. Fresh wild Silvers are available from July to September.

Chum - Often confused with Silvers, Chum salmon have a paler meat color and a lower oil content. Chums are one of the more commonly found salmon in supermarkets, and offer an excellent compromise between flavor and value. Chums are often called "fall salmon" because they're the last salmon run of the year.

Aside from its adaptability and outstanding flavor, another reason for the boom in salmon consumption has been due to scientific findings in the last few years in support of the fish's "heart healthy" benefits. Salmon contains Omega-3 fatty acids, which have been shown to be modestly effective in slowing the progression of fatty buildup in the arteries of patients with heart disease. Furthermore, a diet that includes fish eaten at least twice weekly has been shown to slow the onset of heart disease in adults. Health-consciousness is another factor in determining a club's seafood menu.

Back-to-Basics

In the January 2, 2002 issue of the Las Vegas Review-Journal, Joe Romano, executive chef at the Auere-- ole restaurant inside Mandalay Bay Resort was quoted as saying: "I think what people are really into now is just high flavor done with herbs and fresh ingredients, not heavy sauces and butter-based things."

Indeed, the best way to prepare seafood right now is to let the flavors of the fish speak for itself. In addition to meeting members' desires for simplified tastes, Kevin Kueppers has also found that health reasons play a big part in what they order. Though deepfried dishes remain popular with a wide range of members, simplified ingredients (if not low in fat), have come into vogue.

"Pan-fried, deep-fried, planked, and broiled seem to be ordered more often than before. But as the membership ages, some have found that their bodies can't handle the more exotic ingredients. Others, I think, have just gotten tired of all the fru fru," he said. Another trend that John Kennealy has noticed is the substituting of fish for other pieces of meat.

"In a regional or American type of preparation, chefs are using fish to replace elements in classic sandwiches," he said. "Instead of using pot roast, they're using a piece of fish such as cod. Through substitutions, fish can pull two jobs, lunch and dinner, for an upscale item."

Another example of substituting would be to take an otherwise familiar item, and swap out an ingrediem for a piece of seafood. At the Rockfish Seafood Grill in Dallas, TX, chef Kenny Bowers takes a different approach to his ravioli appetizer - exchanging ground beef in favor of shrimp and lobster. By integrating seafood with a familiar product, customers feel more comfortable ordering something they might not otherwise try.

Consider these potential menu items. Through sauteeing, roasting, or poaching, natural flavors are enhanced:

* Sauteed potato chip-encrusted Halibut fillet over sweet potato cakes and garnished with a chutney cream sauce.

* Marinated grilled Wahoo with mustard scallion creme over Moroccan cous cous pilaf.

Sauteed sesame seed coated Yellowfin tuna (sashimi grade) topped by honey-garlic sauce with vegetable fried rice.

* Fresh Canadian Walleye in a toasted oat breading, sauteed and accompanied by a pesto potato cake.

* Black grouper sauteed with leeks, wild mushrooms, roasted peppers, and white wine over buttered potato gnocchi tossed with parsley and shredded gruyere.

* Sauteed fish with sucatash. One item in particular that has the members at Walnut Hills raving is the planked white fish served with duchess potatoes. Cooked on a wooden plank to add flavor, the white fish is an easy-toprepare recipe that at the same time features a distinct, robust flavor. The cedar plank adds a slight woodsy taste to the fish, accenting its natural flavor and spices.

"There's one guy who goes away on business trips frequently, and every time he comes back he asks for the white fish," Kueppers said. "Even people who travel a lot are likely to have simple tastes."

The most important aspect to any seafood preparation, however, is the quality of the fish to start with. Companies such as Joe's Stone Crabs, Triar Seafood (both from the Florida area), and Hillman Oyster Co. specialize in delivering a superior seafood product to the private club industry.

"We get all of our grouper from Florida instead of suppliers in the Midwest," Kueppers explained, "And that's because our members expect the same quality as they would get if they went to Florida. What they do in Florida is grill it and fry it, not overdoing it with too many different ingredients and flavors."

Despite all of the bad news to come out of seafood industry in the last year, however, there may be an upswing in the months ahead. "Things are just now starting to return to normal somewhat," McClendon said.

A return to simplified food preparations may be one way for members to feel connected in these times, but it is perhaps more effective if the club, the members' "home away from home," provides an atmosphere that supports a sense of community.

"During the summer we roll out a natural wood charcoal grill on Sunday nights and let people get their food straight from the grill," Kueppers said, "It is a well attended event - it feels like a family backyard barbecue."